There is nothing worse than a bad haircut, in my opinion. I mean, there are hurricanes, shootings and world hunger. Those are definitely worse. But I’m talking first world problems here. Maybe the only thing worse is not being able to find your phone charger, but I still think I’d rather have a dead iPhone than a bad haircut. That’s just me.
It wasn’t until I moved to Amsterdam and studied under Rob Peetoom & Vincent Langedijk that the principles of cutting made sense to me. It’s just geometry. How is haircutting geometry? So glad you asked! Let’s start with the basics. The head is a sphere. But it’s not an perfect circle. More egg shaped. So when my big brother use to call me an egg head, he was actually correct! With a perfectly blunt (one length) haircut, every hair is cut to the same length holding it straight down. If you were to stick your finger in an outlet (don’t!) and every hair protruded straight out from the head, it would get progressively longer toward the top. When layering, we hold them hair at varying angles from the bottom perimeter line.
A good haircut compliments the face shape, considers your natural hair growth pattern, thickness and density and should be relatively easy to style. If the lines are cut correctly, your hair should fall almost perfectly when it air dries. What?! That sounds crazy right? I know, I thought the same thing but when living in Amsterdam, it rains every day. And our mode of transportation is a bicycle so your haircut needs to air dry well because no one is blow drying their hair.
How do I find the best cut for your face shape? It’s nice to consider your face shape as oval, square, round, but most people do not fit into perfect shapes. I like to consider what is the widest point, what is the most narrow, what is your best feature and what would you like to compensate for? It’s all about ratios. Once I have where the shortest point should be and the length in consideration, I can build the framework of your cut.
Once it’s dried, I can see where any extra weight is sitting and adjust. Personally, I don’t use thinning shears to take heaviness out. Short hair pushes long hair up, and taking out chunks of hair with shears, in my opinion, doesn’t grow out well. A lot of times weight still exists because the layers on top are longer than the ones underneath, creating a mushroom-like effect. If I need to thin the hair out, I prefer to point cut or slice, since it mimics how hair grows naturally.
Is your hair too difficult to style naturally or just not sitting right? It could be your haircut! Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for a fresh look. Life is hard, your hair shouldn’t be 😉